Quote of the day....

Another one from Sir Yves Saint Laurent....
"I like a woman to be arrogant and daring. The woman who is arrogant doesnt look like anyone else".Yves Saint Laurent

The Coat...look 1

So I started on a coat for my collection.....this is look 1 and still needs heavy refinement.....It is a frock coat, large voluminous front and shorter back matched with a classic shirt dress with bow detail.... Coat is a charcoal colour and the shirt is a dark navy blue.

Dissertation "Wearing the War - Fashioning La Parisienne during the Second World War" By Karima-Chloe Hazim

“Our role is to give France an appearance of serenity; the problems must not hamper the creators. It is their duty to hold aloof from them. The more elegant French women are...the more our country will show people abroad that we do not fear the future.” (Lelong, Lucien, Votre Beaute interview 1939, cited by Veillon, 2002, p 6)

For decades prior to the war, Paris prided itself on being the capital of elegance and style, and the fashions with their codified meanings communicated this elegance to the rest of the world. Fashion in Paris has remained a dominating cultural factor, and every collection is an opportunity for the designers to dictate a style to spread throughout the world. A reputation that was guarded and by no means inclined to denigration, as couture houses resumed their expert activity, all revised to take account of the restrictions imposed by the Germans.
The reaction to the war was as expected: hairstyles appeared shorter, women camouflaged gas masks to match their rationed outfits, whist eccentrics walked about in khaki skirts and jackets with gilt buttons and epaulettes, embracing the impacts on their dress. One piece outfits with zip fasteners which were easy to pull on and siren suits in waterproof material, portrayed the new aesthetic and the acceptance of the inevitable events that arrived. The crisis of war and shortage of men also saw women in uniform, who were visible throughout the streets of Paris: “Women were exhorted to play an active support role in the war effort while accepting wartime rationing that was at odds with the comforting and stylish front they were encouraged to exhibit on the home front” (Craik, 2005, p 91). La Parisienne had a duty to fulfill, an expectation placed upon her not by society, but by her love for her country and men, her involvement gave her a worthy position in a society that needed her. This spirit however saw a contradiction that would jeopardize the essence of what it was to be Parisian: elegant.

Here are some examples of the fashions produced by the couture houses and worn at the time...

Schiaparelli

Lucien Lelong

Hermes

Poster

So for final project the work is 2 components, a dissertation (essay) and a collection, both being a version of each other....it starts with dissertation so you are able to get out your concept verbally and literally and then you translate it into a collection.....
I had to put together a poster that translated my dissertation and and would reflect a collection....
The collection is titled "Atelier de 1939" meaning the studio of 1939 and addresses the dual society in Paris at the time and how the class system was depicted within the clothing and how Parisians, indulged and rationed during the war. As the text on the poster explains....

Torn between the pain of war and the love for ones country saw the 1940’s Parisian woman in a struggle to survive during the second world war. Women in mourning, with their large coats and army boots, assisted the armies in defending their country, living off food and clothing coupons, some of many sacrifices made. Paranoia and anxiety filled the dark and sombre air as women prepared for war, whilst the excess of high society adorned in rich textiles, attended the extravagant fashion shows fulfilling their duty of elegance.

The signature army coat that defined and protected from the harsh surroundings will be deconstructed and reformed. A focus on classic couture pieces, collectables and heirlooms cherished due to the shortages, with large coats embellished and adorned as masterpieces. Protection meets presentation and identity.

With a simplistic military aesthetic this collection explores the relationship and distinction between the classes of Parisians and celebrates the fashion worn by both, featuring the rationed blanket coats of the lower class combined with the embellished couture of the upper class. Tailored, sharp lines, play on volume and shape, a dark and heavy collection, a hint of bright shades and accents that pop; desire and reality are in conflict.

Skim Mocha 2 Sugars please....

So in the mindset of everything war and everything French for this dissertation and collection, most of the historical items i was getting hold of were either, torn, burnt, wripped, had holes....etc....which is kind of interesting especially when trying to generate ideas for fabrications and prints....sipping on a coffee when i should have been sewing was the best $3.50 spent, and 2 hours wasted.....
TAAA DAAAA.....Organic Decay.....the dried up coffee in the cup started a whirlwind of ideas...

Quote of the day....

"Most women would prefer to trip to hell in high heels than to walk flat heeled to heaven". William A. Rossi.
ESPECIALLY IN THESE....oh shut up yes they're Chanel!

UTS FASHION STUDENT

Speaking of jackets and detailing from that picture of Napoloeon in my last blog, looooooook at this fashionmister i was lucky enough to photograph...... Mr Street is currently a 1st year at UTS studying fashion, and i could have picked him right out of the front row of Prada sitting along side Ms Wintour or some fashion bloggers OR on the Champs Elysees walking out of Prada.....all in all after the embarrassment of pulling him out of his construction class and asking for his photo, it was great to see some good dressing, as Eric would say HELLLLLOOOO we do do Fashion......