For decades prior to the war, Paris prided itself on being the capital of elegance and style, and the fashions with their codified meanings communicated this elegance to the rest of the world. Fashion in Paris has remained a dominating cultural factor, and every collection is an opportunity for the designers to dictate a style to spread throughout the world. A reputation that was guarded and by no means inclined to denigration, as couture houses resumed their expert activity, all revised to take account of the restrictions imposed by the Germans.
The reaction to the war was as expected: hairstyles appeared shorter, women camouflaged gas masks to match their rationed outfits, whist eccentrics walked about in khaki skirts and jackets with gilt buttons and epaulettes, embracing the impacts on their dress. One piece outfits with zip fasteners which were easy to pull on and siren suits in waterproof material, portrayed the new aesthetic and the acceptance of the inevitable events that arrived. The crisis of war and shortage of men also saw women in uniform, who were visible throughout the streets of Paris: “Women were exhorted to play an active support role in the war effort while accepting wartime rationing that was at odds with the comforting and stylish front they were encouraged to exhibit on the home front” (Craik, 2005, p 91). La Parisienne had a duty to fulfill, an expectation placed upon her not by society, but by her love for her country and men, her involvement gave her a worthy position in a society that needed her. This spirit however saw a contradiction that would jeopardize the essence of what it was to be Parisian: elegant.
Here are some examples of the fashions produced by the couture houses and worn at the time...
Schiaparelli
Lucien Lelong
Hermes
No comments:
Post a Comment