Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Dissertation "Wearing the War - Fashioning La Parisienne during the Second World War" By Karima-Chloe Hazim

May be wondering what all the French fuss is about......
I am currently in my final year of Fashion design and for my major collection I have embarked on uncovering the history of fashion and dress in Paris during the Second World War....
My dissertation (writing) explored the fashions worn by the Parisian society which was distinctly split in two when the war broke out. The rich continued their lavish couture spending and the poor had to make do with the rationing and shortages. I came to the conclusion throughout my essay that France survived the war through Fashion, and the way the society dressed depicted the survival of the country.

Extract from "Wearing the War - Fashioning La Parisienne during the Second World War"
By Karima-Chloe Hazim.

Tricolor chiffon evening dresses trimmed with red, white and blue ribbon, a military style coat heavily beaded with pearls and gold metal chains, and a peasant style gypsy dress with a tartan skirt and lace apron, one could observe that this was quite an assortment for a collection. However while seemingly confused Chanel’s spring/summer ensembles of 1939 revealed the dual nature of the society in Paris at the time. Fashion historian Dominique Veillon suggests a way to understand this collection when she writes;
“Fashion is an expression of every aspect of life; it is a way of
existing and behaving, and is, in fact an observation point from
which to view the political, economic and cultural environment
of an historical period.” (Veillon, 2002, p vii)

As Veillon addresses, fashion is a benchmark and reference of the context and social standing of an era in history. Through the dress demonstrated on the street, in the media and collections presented at the time, fashion transcends simple dressing - the adornment and concealment of the body, and offers the historian a field of study. In order to generate an understanding of a particular era, as designers it is crucial to comprehend the motivations behind the clothing fashioned by the existing society.
The harrowing years from 1939 to 1945 in European history offer pivotal details for carrying out this sort of research. These years cover a brief yet eventful period of time and provide an opportunity to explore the relationship between, as Veillon details ‘the phenomenon of fashion’ (Veillon, 2002, p vii) and the social situation of a fashionable society, ways of dressing and the adoption of attitudes.
This study will closely investigate the ramifications of the Second World War upon Paris as a city, and the methods employed to outlive the severe conditions and restrictions placed on a fashion driven society. It will reveal how Paris fashion was utilized both on the streets and in the collections, as a communication device to instill messages of strength and resilience to both Parisian and occupier and reinforce the ideals that have shaped the city throughout history.

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