Prada Fall 2009 RTW

Nothing disco about this collection, boiled wool, forties style coats and suits, complemented by the violently frizzed hair of the models. It has a bizarre take on utility even Prada found hard to explain. "I didn't want to do anything about the city," she said, "more something about sport and the outdoors in general—freedom and nature. But in the end, I realized I liked coats and suits. It was serious, in a way. It was about a need for feminine empowerment."

It hints a sense of war, loss and isolation. I found the tone quite relevant to my collection. The seriousness of the suits reveals a subdued elegance and kind of sexiness. A suit of strength made to last, and I particularly love the shorts....